Not sure what you mean, but even with external loop back mode, you could see the CANH / CANL signals on a transceiver attached to Tx. You cannot receive CAN messages from other nodes in loop back mode, though.
To get a CAN environment running from ground up, I would suggest two boards (preferably of the same type), and the following steps:
1. get the loop back example running, perhaps adapt it for external mode and observe the bus signals
2. Get a proper CAN example running (e.g. the suggested interrupt example) on both boards, and connect them directly (Tx / Rx / GND directly, without transceiver).
3. Add the transceivers to both nodes.